India through the eyes of Nina

Fulbright Award: Indo-American Environmental Leadership Program, Spring 2006 - India.

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Location: San Francisco, CA, United States

Tuesday, June 27, 2006

Road trip to Agra and the great Taj Mahal (June 25)

Early Sunday morning a group of 15 folks ventured out with Delhi Tourism on a small bus to Agra - It was a very fun group, all in all. There were only 3 foreigners with a guy from Singapore, woman from Mexico and me from America - the others were people from all around India.

On our way, we stopped at this place for a traditional Indian breakfast - it was only 10am yet when these two fellas decided it was prime time for a cold beer (from the "beer bar") to start the day, I couldn't resist but to join them!

It was a 3-4 hour drive to the State of Uttar Pradesh - Upon arrival you could feel the power!
Here is the "entrance gate" to the Taj:





And, once inside, the sheer magnificence of this historical phenomenon would blow you away!







As described, the Taj Mahal is the "zenith of Moghul architecture and quite simply one of the world's most marvelous buildings. Volumes have been written on its perfection, and its image adorns countless glossy brochures and guidebooks - nonetheless, the reality never fails to overwhelm all who see it, and few words can do it justice."


So please, come with me and step into my palace! ha! Nobody could ever dream of having a playground like this to call their own- The Taj is one of the most alluring places you'll ever visit. Apparently early morning, during the sunset, and full moon are the most impressive times to be here - many people will come when the gates open, stay all day, and retreat back home late into the night in order to experience the fullness of all this majestic structure has to offer.



The Taj is known as a monument to romantic love. Shah Jahan built the Taj to enshrine the body of his favorite wife, Arjumand Bann Begum, better known as "Mumtaz Mahal" who died shortly after giving birth to her 14th child (can you say *birth control*?) -Of all the Moghuls (ruler of the Muslims), only Shah Jahan, who had been designing forts and palaces since the age of 16 could come up with such a magnificent design. More from the history books indicates construction occured by a workforce of about 20,000 men from all over Asia that commenced in 1632 and the mausoleum was completed in 1653. This place is made of pure marble that was brought in from Rajasthan, and precious stones embedded/carved in the walls, roof, ceiling etc. included onyx, amethyst, lapis lazuli, turquoise, jade, crystal, coral and mother-of-pearl - and were carried to Agra from Persia, Russia, Afghanistan, Tibet, China, and the Indian Ocean.

This is a view of the Entrance Gate from the front steps of the Taj - In general, this is a large park area that sits on 125 or so acres of land:

This is a picture of the top of the Taj; but sorry, it clearly doesn't do the beauty justice! I tried to capture the amazing detail of the artwork and stones:






We were lucky to have a beautiful (but HOT) day for our trip - towards the end of our afternoon visit, the clouds started rolling in bringing a shade of gray skies providing added beauty to this already stunning structure.
















Unfortunately the Taj is not without its problems. The marble is no longer "perfect" in places and empty casings here and there represent lost precious stones - Apparently these are the early effects of the threat posed by pollution from traffic and industry (over 1700 factories in and around Agra) and the millions of tourist who visit each year. "While marble is all but impervious to the onslaught of wind and rain that erodes softer sandstone, it has no natural defence against the sulfer dioxide that lingers in dusty haze and shrouds the monument...." - (bummer!)

Visitors are not permitted to take photographs inside the Tomb where Shah Jahan is buried next to his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, and you must remove your shoes prior to entering (as is typical with all/most Temples, Mosques, Tombs in India). According to historians, "There are numerous Islamic inscriptions that play a key part in the overall design of the building - 14 chapters of the Koran are quoted at length here and deal with two principle themes: The day of judgement, and the pleasures of heaven." There is also ancient Sufi text here and who knows what else!? =)

The Taj overlooks the River Yamuna and is surrounded by beautiful gardens, lined with extraordinary trees, gorgeous ferns and deep red and pink flowers - After being here in real life, I can see why the Taj Mahal is a favorite photographic image and truly a symbol of eternal love.


P.S. Taj factoid <--> U.S. - I learned that Prez Bush is the ONLY U.S. President that has visited India that did NOT go to the Taj Mahal! Our tour guide is an elderly guy who gave tours to Presidents Lyndon Johnson, J.F.K., Nixon, Clinton (and a 2nd time w/ his family) - he knew of other Prez's who visited as well but did not get to meet. Every one of the U.S. presidents have explored the Taj except Bush!!!! Go figure and need I say more!?