My first week in Delhi

Greetings from the land of beautiful people, fine cuisine, mass chaos on the streets, stimulation like you'd never believe, amazing history, arts, technology, poverty, wealth, many languages abound, unique clothing, hard working and extremely talented people... My brother says: "Don't be the ugly American and piss off those Hindus. Don't want to see you on CNN: kidnap victim." (funny guy, eh?!) - and one of my sisters asks: "Have you ridden an elephant yet?"

Well, I've been in touch with some of you and figured it was about time that I get this "blog" up and running. Since I thought I was leaving in March (but we won't go there!) I created this blog in anticipation of how much fun it could be to attempt to communicate with the rest of the world this way. Upon arrival at the Delhi Int'l Airport, I gotta tell you I was THRILLED to see a young guy with my name on placard ready for pickup - many Indians speak English, but certainly not all. Unfortunately for me, he did not. That's okay b/c he knew where bring me to the Inn for my first night and in a foreign country, that's all that matters. Of course I had to cash a few U.S. $ for Rupees: Well, I've been in touch with a few folks about this amazing new world I've just encountered. This week was a bit unsettling at first as I was intimidated as hell! Didn't sleep very well at night - I couldn't pronounce anything that I ate, the bank wouldn't let me open an account (the Educational Foundation was annoyed at that but we went to plan B), wild monkeys skirting across my path, stray dogs roam the streets and back alleys as if they rule the kingdom, bargaining with the taxi's and rickshaw drivers is a skill. I was trying to stay sane but lost my first cell phone in the meantime! (not a big deal apparently as I'm told it was a "cheap Indian nokia"). Regardless, I felt bad but got it taken care of. I continue to be perpetually followed at the market with people trying to sell me their goods, I'm immersed with my "watch, listen, and learn" hat on every minute of the day ... Indians are warm and welcoming wherever I go -
The rickshaw's, however, are a trip! These crazy little 3-wheel motor scooters take you all over the city. Here's my limo and driver! (HA) - Actually Bahnu was my driver for that day.
The roads through town are 2 lanes each way/on each side of the street - the dotted lines don't really mean much to people b/c a 2 lane road really becomes a 4 way road given that there are local norms allowing you to go wherever you want, whenever you want on the road. LOTS of honking ... roads are shared with bicycles, scooters, motorcycles, cars, buses, rickshaws, people, ox or horses pulling goods, cows roaming on streets and highways... you name it! So these little rickshaws cruise around "nipping" in and out (in the US we call it unnecessary and dangerous weaving) but that's the Indian way. So I've learned these motorized buggies have a mantra of three goods: "Good breaks, good eyes, good luck". And, they just love foreigners and of course they love your money - the drivers constantly say: "You happy, then I'm happy"

After my first night at Jukaso Inn, I moved out and will be staying in a sweet guest house in the Sunder Nagar neighborhood with a retired couple. They rent out 3 of their rooms to mostly foreign visitors. They're kind of like the grandparent types who are very generous and love to engage with new people, help with advice for getting around town, that sort of thing. Apparently they know loads of people in the area so they constantly introduce me or tell me to use their names as a referral if I want or need something. I love going to the markets and bargaining with the locals - being followed around, however, as mentioned is tricky - There is "Old" Delhi where people very much live within traditionally indigenous lifestyles, and "New" Delhi is one of the more cosmopolitan areas so while there are less renewable resources like in America, there are indeed many modern conveniences and top level stores/merchants with fixed prices. I've been avoiding all the familiar restaurants and shops - okay with the exception of eating at the "All American Diner" for breakfast one morning when I was feeling a bit lost! The staff at the Fulbright House are all extremely gracious and very helpful. This place is like a white palace:

Working at the Ministry of Environment & Forests (MoEF) is a bit hectic as space in their offices is very limited - I'll spend more time in the MoEF library where I can use those resources and spread out, or at this Fulbright House when I'm able to - My evaluation project of the National Green Corps youth programs in the schools has begun and so far so good. After meeting with Deputy Secretary, Uday Shanker, it looks like I will have a bit of a chance to travel to other cities/states - Agra where the Taj Mahal is, Jaipur in Rajisthan, and hopefully Madras.

Elevators are called "lifts", bridges are known as "fly overs", all switches are opposite in turning them on and off (re: "off" is switched up), yoga is a daily routine for majority of people in some capacity, mangoes are in season. I'm learning the Government is really very corrupt (no wonder it takes so long for people/most anyone to get clearance) and bribing someone in the Govt to get what you want is not uncommon.... And, apparently friends appoint friends to high "posts" positions) even if they are not qualified - people in power purposefully oppress the lower caste people to "keep them down" (hmmm... sound like the U.S. at all?!). I've been meeting several great people, have a couple of new friends to pal around with when I'm free after a day of research, tea is a huge deal - people take afternoon teas at home, work, etc. - I'm a coffee freak so have definitely been enjoying the break and thoroughly being immersed in Indian teas (okay, I had a latte the other day at this modern shop but it's a rare occasion)... Mosquitoes is not a problem this time of year - it's too hot and too dry and humid...I get stared at constantly by the men, sized up and down all the time, at first I was very nervous and did not look back at them - but as I lightened up I just started to wave and say hello. I find most will smile and wave in return while others still just stare blankly wanting to know who you are and where you're from... I'm attempting to keep up with U.S. and world news via the Indian Times (a mini-version of the NY Times or Washington Post, so it's all good).

Went to Qutab Minar a few days ago - It's a protected monument from thousands of years ago when the Moghuls (Muslim rulers) took over/tried to wipe out the Hindu's... Then of course the Brits came later to take over - Here's photo of me within the ruins:

I've enjoyed tea and a chat with Prakash, young store manager who invited me in to his shop. He is adorable! We exchanged stories of our respective countries ... Will spend time with a new friend, Deepali, who I did quite a bit of email with prior to my arrival - she's begun a new venture starting up a youth camp as she's exploring new career options upon leaving the banking world.

Well, this first week was extremely eventful, eye-opening and educational - This first update merely provides a few highlights. Now that this Blog is set up, I'll do my best to write more throughout the week - We'll see. So please come back to visit, post your comments, questions, curiosities, etc. - All for now!